City Guides - Paris, France

This is the Balón y Barrio City Guide to Paris. We’re moving past the Eiffel Tower selfies and the "City of Love" clichés to reveal a metropolis built on concrete, immigration, and a football culture that bridges the gap between the glitz of the 16th Arrondissement and the rebel spirit of the banlieues.

⚽ The Balón: The Iconic Stages

1. Paris Saint-Germain (PSG) – Parc des Princes

The undisputed heavyweight. The Parc des Princes (47,929 capacity) is a Brutalist masterpiece. Its concrete ribs and tight bowl create an acoustic pressure cooker. While the club has transformed into a global lifestyle brand, the atmosphere remains surprisingly intense, fueled by the Collectif Ultras Paris.

• The Vibe: High-fashion meets high-stakes. It’s where global icons like Marquinhos and Ousmane Dembélé take the stage.

• The Player to Know: Warren Zaïre-Emery. The local kid from the suburbs who is now the heartbeat of the midfield.

2. Red Star FC – Stade Bauer (The Soul of the Barrio)

If PSG is the Balón, Red Star is the Barrio. To understand the "Barrio" in Paris, you must go to Saint-Ouen in the 93 district. Red Star FC is the romantic soul of French football. The club is a bastion of social activism and community.

Founded by Jules Rimet, this club is rooted in the French Resistance. Stade Bauer is an English-style ground where the fans are closer to the pitch than they are to the exits.
Defiantly old-school, the stadium is an English-style ground where fans lean over the railings, and the smell of spicy sausages fills the air. It’s the antithesis of the modern, commercialised game.

• The Vibe: Romantic, gritty, and fiercely communal. No VIP boxes, just wooden stands and passionate "ultras" who value history over trophies.

   

  3. Paris FC – Stade Charléty

  The "other" club. Playing in the South of Paris, PFC is the ambitious underdog. They recently made history by offering free tickets to all home games, making professional football accessible to everyone in the neighbourhood

  • The Vibe: Relaxed and family-friendly. 

🇫🇷 The National Icon: Stade de France (Saint-Denis)

While PSG has the Parc and Red Star has Bauer, the Stade de France (80,000 capacity) is the spiritual home of the entire nation. Built for the 1998 World Cup, it’s a nomadic stadium—it has no permanent club tenant, meaning every match here is a massive event.

• The Legacy: This is where Zidane scored twice in ’98 to secure France’s first star. More recently, it was the crown jewel of the Paris 2024 Olympics.

• The Architecture: Known for its "flying saucer" roof that appears to float above the stands. It’s also one of the only stadiums in the world to have hosted both a FIFA World Cup final and a Rugby World Cup final.

• Logistics: Take the RER B (La Plaine Stade de France) or RER D (Stade de France - Saint-Denis). It’s located in the heart of the 93, just a stone's throw from the Basilica of Saint-Denis.

🏛️ Football Museums & Immersive Tours

• The Stade de France Museum: Included with the stadium tour, this isn't your typical dusty trophy room. It features unique artefacts like the guitars of stars who played the venue and the original models of the stadium.

• PSG Stadium Tour (The Immersive Experience): Forget a basic walk-through. PSG offers an "immersive" tour at the Parc des Princes using VR and high-tech displays to let you feel the tunnel walk-out and the roar of the Auteuil stand.

• Street Art "Museums": Paris is an open-air museum for football. Head to Bondy to see the massive 10-story mural of Kylian Mbappé, or wander through Saint-Ouen near Stade Bauer for gritty, political Red Star graffiti that tells the story of the neighbourhood's resistance.

   

🌍 Global Icons: The Balón in the City of Light

While Paris produces talent at an industrial rate, it has also served as a stage for global icons who arrived as stars and left as immortals. In the 90s, the Brazilian maestro Raí brought Samba to the Seine, becoming a symbol of elegance and a bridge between the South American flair and Parisian chic. In the early 2000s, a young Ronaldinho used the Parc des Princes as his personal playground, showcasing the "Joga Bonito" spirit before conquering the world. The modern era, however, was defined by the "Zlatan effect." Zlatan Ibrahimović arrived with a kingly aura, single-handedly shifting the club’s DNA from domestic contender to global powerhouse. This paved the way for the "Galactico" years of Neymar Jr. and Lionel Messi, whose presence turned every matchday into a worldwide event. Yet, perhaps the most beloved "adopted" Parisian is Marquinhos—a Brazilian who arrived as a teenager and has spent over a decade personifying the club's resilience, proving that you don't have to be born in the banlieues to become the heartbeat of the city's footballing identity.

🧱 The Parisian Factory: 10 Local Legends

The Île-de-France region is arguably the greatest talent pool in world football. Here are 10 icons who were born in the city or its surrounding barrios:

1. Kylian Mbappé (Bondy): The "Prince of Bondy" grew up in the 93, playing on the local concrete pitches before becoming the most feared forward on the planet.

2. Thierry Henry (Les Ulis): Long before he was an Arsenal legend, "Titi" was honing his speed and precision in the housing projects of Les Ulis, south of Paris.

3. Nicolas Anelka (Trappes): The original Enfant Terrible of French football, Anelka brought the raw, uncompromising street style of Trappes to the biggest clubs in Europe.

4. Paul Pogba (Roissy-en-Brie): Known for his "Pogboom" strikes, Paul and his brothers learned the game on the humble neighbourhood courts of Seine-et-Marne.

5. N'Golo Kanté (Paris/Suresnes): The tireless engine of the French midfield grew up in a modest apartment in Suresnes, epitomising the humility and hard work of the Parisian suburbs.

6. Riyad Mahrez (Sarcelles): A true "street" footballer, Mahrez developed his world-class dribbling in the technical cages of Sarcelles, north of the city.

7. Kingsley Coman (Paris/Moissy-Cramayel): A serial winner who has won a league title every year of his professional career, Coman started his journey in the PSG youth system.

8. William Saliba (Bondy): Another product of the famous AS Bondy (the same club as Mbappé), Saliba is the modern face of the "Parisian Wall"—the elite defenders produced in the 93.

9. Christopher Nkunku (Lagny-sur-Marne): A creative force who worked his way through the PSG academy, Nkunku represents the high-tech, versatile talent emerging from the eastern suburbs.

10. Moussa Diaby (19th Arrondissement): Born right in the heart of the city in the 19th, Diaby’s lightning-quick pace and flair are a direct reflection of the vibrant, fast-paced street life of Paris.

Where do you want to go next? Whether you're hunting for a vintage shirt at the Saint-Ouen flea market or grabbing an anti-waste snack at the Bauer refreshment stand, the soul of Paris is in its neighbourhoods. 🧭🇫🇷

🌭 Must-Try Culture: The Taste of the Match

In Paris, the pre-match meal is as important as the starting XI.

• The Iconic Merguez Sandwich (Stade Bauer): You cannot visit Red Star without eating this. It is the gold standard of French stadium food—spicy Merguez sausages tucked into a fresh baguette with a smear of mustard or harissa.

• Anti-Waste Offer: Staying until the end? Take advantage of the anti-waste offer at the Red Star refreshment stands after the match. You can snag up to 50% off on certain food products—the ultimate savvy local move.

• The "Zinc" Bar: Before any PSG game, head to a traditional brasserie near Porte de Saint-Cloud. Stand at the "zinc" (the counter) for a quick café or a demi (draught beer) with the locals.

🍺 Quirky Hangouts & Local Secrets

Paris is a city of "Supporter Bars" where you can find a slice of a different city in the heart of the capital.

• La Divette de Montmartre (18th): A legendary, eccentric spot covered in football scarves and stickers. It is the official HQ for Stade Rennais fans in Paris, but it's a place where anyone who loves "Real Football" is welcome.

• The Kop Bar (18th): A tiny red sanctuary for Liverpool FC fans. When the Reds play, this place is a sea of jerseys and "You'll Never Walk Alone" echoing through the streets of Paris.

• Aux Sports (15th): An unpretentious neighbourhood bar that feels like a time capsule. It’s the go-to for traditional fans who want a cold beer and a screen without the tourist-trap prices.

• The "City Cages": If you want a quirky hangout, go to Le Playground Duperré (9th). It’s the most famous basketball/football cage in the world due to its vibrant colours. Even if you aren't playing, just sitting on the steps watching the local kids show off their technical flair is a Parisian football rite of passage.

🏘️ BARRIO – Paris Like a Local

Beyond the Haussmann boulevards and the glow of the Eiffel Tower, the soul of Paris is forged in the quartiers popularies and the concrete banlieues. This is a city of sharp contrasts—where high-fashion chic meets the raw, rhythmic energy of the 93 district. Whether you’re hunting for vintage jerseys in the winding alleys of Saint-Ouen, sipping natural wine on the edge of a canal, or watching the sun set over the street art of Belleville, this is where the "Barrio" truly breathes.

🗺️ The Neighbourhood: Saint-Ouen & Beyond

To find the soul of Parisian football, you have to go to the 93 (Seine-Saint-Denis).

• Saint-Ouen Flea Market (Marché aux Puces): Right next to Stade Bauer. It’s the largest in the world. Spend your morning digging through vintage football shirts and antique furniture before the 3:00 PM kick-off.

• Parc des Buttes-Chaumont: Forget the manicured Tuileries; this is where locals actually go. It’s hilly, features a suspension bridge, a waterfall, and the iconic Rosa Bonheur bar for a post-walk drink.
  
  
• The Pigalle Basketball / Football Cage: One of the most photographed sports spots in the world. Even if you aren't playing, watching the local kids showcase their technical flair in this vibrant, colourful cage is a lesson in Parisian street style.
  
  

• Canal Saint-Martin: For the post-match debrief, head to the 10th/11th. Locals sit on the edge of the canal with a bottle of wine. It’s the epicentre of the "Neo-bistro" movement.

• Belleville: The birthplace of Edith Piaf and a melting pot of cultures. Great for street art tours and incredible North African and Asian street food.

• Rue de Charonne: The ultimate street for foodies. It’s packed with traditional bistros and modern wine bars where you can debrief the game over a plate of artisanal cheese and a carafe of red.

🍽️ Eat & Drink – Merguez, Natural Wine, and Bistro Classics

Parisian food culture is a balance of high-end mastery and gritty street soul. While the city is famous for Michelin stars, the "Barrio" experience is found in the crowded zinc bars, the aroma of spicy sausages outside the stadium, and the late-night bistros where the wine is natural and the steak is rare.

Matchday Plates & Street Classics

• Sandwich Merguez-Frites: The undisputed king of French terrace food. A spicy North African lamb sausage tucked into a crusty baguette, loaded with fries, and slathered in harissa or Dijon mustard. It’s the smoky, spicy scent of a matchday in the 93.

• Jambon-Beurre: The "Parisian Sandwich." It sounds simple—high-quality ham, French butter, and a fresh baguette—but when done right (look for the "Prince de Paris" ham), it’s a masterclass in simplicity.

• Galettes & Crêpes: Savory buckwheat galettes (ham, cheese, egg) are the ultimate portable meal. Grab one from a street stall in Montparnasse or near the Canal Saint-Martin between stops.

• L’As du Fallafel: While not "traditionally" French, the falafel pita on Rue des Rosiers in the Marais is a Parisian rite of passage. Expect long lines, but it’s the best "fuel on the go" in the city.

Bistro Soul: The Heavy Hitters

• Steak Frites: The backbone of the Parisian brasserie. Thinly sliced steak, usually served with a secret buttery sauce (like at Le Relais de l'Entrecôte) and a mountain of golden fries.

• Croque Monsieur / Madame: The ultimate toasted sandwich. Layers of ham and Emmental cheese, drenched in bechamel and grilled. Add a fried egg on top to make it a "Madame."

• Hachis Parmentier: The French answer to shepherd's pie. Comforting, rich, and often found in neighborhood spots like Bistrot Paul Bert.

• Soupe à l’Oignon Gratinée: Historically the food of the workers at the old Les Halles market. It’s thick, onion-rich broth topped with a massive crust of melted Gruyère.

Drinks to Try

• Le Demi: A standard 25cl draught beer. If you want a bigger one, ask for a "Pinte."

• Picon Bière: A classic northern French/Parisian "booster." A shot of bitter orange liqueur added to your blonde beer—it gives a herbal, citrus kick that’s perfect for a cold afternoon at Stade Bauer.

• Vin Naturel: Paris is the world capital of natural wine. Head to the 11th arrondissement (try Septime La Cave) for a glass of "funky" red that hasn't been touched by chemicals.

• Kir / Kir Royale: The classic apéro. Blackcurrant liqueur (Cassis) topped with dry white wine or Champagne.

Sweet Finish

• Berthillon Ice Cream: Take a stroll to Île Saint-Louis for a scoop from the city’s most legendary ice cream maker. The salted caramel is life-changing.

• Macarons: Skip the airport boxes. Go to Pierre Hermé for the most inventive flavors or Ladurée for the classic, historic experience.

🏘️ Where Locals Eat: Authentic Bites in the Barrios

Parisian dining isn't just about white tablecloths; it’s about the "Zinc" (the counter), the communal wooden tables, and the noisy brasseries where the history is as thick as the onion soup. To eat like a local, you have to leave the tourist trail and head into the working-class arrondissements and the northern suburbs.

Chez Gladines (Butte-aux-Cailles/13th) An institution for anyone who loves a loud, chaotic, and unpretentious meal. Located in the village-like Butte-aux-Cailles, this spot serves massive portions of Basque-influenced comfort food. It’s rustic, packed with students and locals, and famously affordable.

• The Move: Order the Escalope Montagnarde and a pitcher of red wine. Don't expect a quiet conversation—this is where Parisian energy is at its peak.

Le Baron Rouge (Aligre/12th) Step into a preserved neighbourhood wine bar that feels like a time capsule. Located near the Marché d’Aligre, this is where locals gather to drink wine directly from the barrels. On weekends, the sidewalk turns into a massive, informal party where people balance plates of fresh oysters on top of trash cans and car hoods.

• The Move: Grab a glass of whatever is being poured from the barrel and a plate of charcuterie. It’s gritty, authentic, and strictly "no-frills."

Bistrot Paul Bert (11th) The gold standard of the Parisian "Neo-bistro" movement. Stylish yet grounded, this is where foodies and neighbourhood locals collide. It represents the 11th arrondissement's evolution into a culinary powerhouse without losing its soul.

• The Move: The Steak Frites here is legendary, often cited as the best in the city. Follow it up with their massive Paris-Brest for dessert.

Le Temps des Cerises (Butte-aux-Cailles/13th) This is our favourite spot in the city—a neighbourhood cooperative since the 1970s. Tucked into a beautiful timber-framed building, it’s a bastion of the "old Paris" spirit. The staff are part-owners, and the atmosphere is warm, inclusive, and fiercely local.

• The Move: Come here for the daily specials and stay for the conversation. It’s the kind of place where you’ll speak to the staff and regulars alike before the night is over.

L'Olympic (Saint-Ouen/93) For the true matchday spirit of Red Star FC, this is the only place to be. Located directly across from the entrance to Stade Bauer, L'Olympic is the unofficial clubhouse for the fans. It is covered in green-and-white memorabilia and smells of espresso and spicy merguez.

• The Move: A pre-match demi (beer) or a Pastis. The energy here is raw, political, and doesn’t fake a thing. It’s the heartbeat of Saint-Ouen football culture.

🎶 Culture & Music: Paris’s Soundtrack

Paris doesn't just play music; it pioneers it. From the birth of Afro-trap in the housing projects to the smoky jazz cellars of the Left Bank, the city is a constant bassline. Here’s where to tune in:

• Saint-Ouen (The 93): Gritty, rebellious, and the heart of the Red Star FC identity. This is the epicentre of French Rap and Afro-trap. On matchdays, the air near Stade Bauer hums with heavy beats and the political spirit of a neighbourhood that wears its history on its sleeve.

• Belleville: The hilly, multicultural heartbeat of the East. It’s a mix of artists, immigrants, and "Bobos" (bourgeois-bohemians). Expect street murals, hidden courtyards, and bars where North African Rai music blends with modern indie-rock. It’s home to the best panoramic views of the city skyline.

• Canal Saint-Martin: The ultimate local hangout. This isn’t for tourists; it’s for Parisians with a bottle of wine and a pizza box sitting on the water’s edge. The vibe is laid-back, creative, and effortlessly cool—the birthplace of the "Neo-bistro" food revolution.

• SoPi (South Pigalle): Once the red-light district, now a neon-lit hub of late-night bars, vinyl shops, and legendary music venues. It’s where the high energy of the city’s nightlife meets the historic grit of the 9th Arrondissement.

🎧 Top Live Music Venues

Want to pair your football pilgrimage with the best Parisian sounds?

• La Bellevilloise / La Maroquinerie: Tucked away in Belleville, these twin venues are the gold standard for indie, world music, and underground hip-hop. Authentic and intimate.

• Le New Morning: A legendary jazz and blues temple. If you want to feel the historic soul of Paris’s musical relationship with the world, this is the spot.

• Supersonic: Located near Bastille, this is a sanctuary for indie and rock lovers. It feels like a New York loft and hosts incredible free tribute nights and local band showcases.

• Point Éphémère: A converted warehouse on the Canal de l'Ourcq. It’s a multidisciplinary space for concerts, exhibitions, and late-night DJ sets by the water.

🎶 The Parisian Sound: Music & Playlist

Paris doesn't have one single sound; it’s a collision of chic French touch, gritty street rap, and timeless chanson. This playlist captures the city from the neon lights of the 11th arrondissement to the concrete cages of the northern suburbs.

Parisian football is inextricably linked to French Hip-Hop. The banlieues (suburbs) that produce the world's best players also produce the world's best rap.

Spotify Playlist: Balón y Barrio – Paris.  

Don't forget the anti-waste offer at Red Star! As the match ends, head to the refreshment stands in the concourse. Not only do you get a deal on the remaining Merguez sandwiches, but it’s also where the locals linger to argue about the referee's decisions while the sun sets over the Saint-Ouen skyline.

Where do you want to go? Whether you're chasing the ghosts of ’98 at the Stade de France or hunting for vintage shirts in the flea markets, the Barrio of Paris is calling. 🧭⚽️

🎟️ Ready to Live Paris Like a Local?

Let Balón y Barrio take you through Paris’s European nights, suburban rebellions, and neighborhood bistro crawls. We’ll show you the city where the luxury of the West meets the raw energy of the North.

• ⚽ Stadium Access: Parc des Princes, Stade Bauer (Red Star), Paris FC & the National Temple (Stade de France).

• 🍷 Bistro & Zinc Crawls: Natural wine and small plates across the 11th, the 18th, and the canal-side hangouts of Saint-Martin.

• 🎶 Live Music Nights: From Afro-trap in the suburbs to underground indie in Belleville, curated with our local playlist.

• 📸 Guided Walking Tours: Explore the "City Cages," the 10-story Mbappé mural in Bondy, and the legendary Saint-Ouen flea markets.

• Matchday Rituals: Merguez sandwiches at Bauer, pre-match demis at L’Olympic, and finding the best "after-hours" terrace views.

👉 Book your Paris football & culture tour now

👉 www.balonybarrio.com | @balonybarrio